|The advantage of the log ladder is that you can lift up one log end at a time and let the opposite log end help you by its weight. It is easier than you think! The distance between the steps should be slightly over 1/2 of the guide rail’s length.
The picture illustrates how a block or a log can be secured by a support which props against a C-clamp. The C-clamp can be moved to give good pressure against the project log or block. Note that the T-bar is turned 90° (so that the T-bar and the rack come next to each other) in order to better utilize the guide bar length (see the picture in the circle). Also note that the T-bar and the rack are extended. If necessary, the scale bail and the dimension plate can be dismantled when using this method, but often you want to combine both sawing methods.
Stationary Big Mills - Build your own mini-sawmill in wood!
It is possible to screw the arms to the log bed. You will then have an easy-to-use minisawmill that works after the same principle as the Logosol sawmill.
Remove the screw plates, the cradles, and the cradle feet. Turn the arms so that their ’backs’ come in contact with the sides of the log bed.
Let them protrude from the log bed so that you can reach the cross knobs. Fasten the arms to the log bed sides with screws. It is a good thing to use the angle ironswhich come with the Timberjig, as ’support shelves’ under the arms. Fasten the arms so they stick up a couple of millimetres over the log bed, and make sure they are mounted parallel to each other.
If you want to saw long logs, you can use three or more guide rail supports, and build the same amount of log ladders, which you line up to a long log bed. When you are to saw oversized logs, you extend the T-bars and the racks.
In order to utilize more of the guide bar length, the T-bar can be turned 90° towards the rack, so that the T-bar will be positioned next to the arm. Remove the Timberjig from the guide rail, and move the log outwards, from the rack before making the height settings.
Building your own log ladder – Instructions
The height of the log ladder should be adaptded to suit your length. If you have a tractor or the like, with which you load the logs, you can make a plane log bed instead of a log ladder. Below you will find instructions for building a log ladder in a small format that is easy to take along with you. If you remove the cross struts, the log ladder will fit into a common private car.
Work on clear and level ground when the steps are nailed together. Drive the nails in slightly at an angle so that they do not pierce through the boards. Remember to make the sides mirror-reversed so that the 2”2 joists can be turned inwards on both side of the ladder. Cut the cross struts (F) diagonally at the ends and screw them to the 2”2 joists so that they are on opposite sides of the joists, according to fig.
Attach the assembly angle irons (B) which will serve as a support for the Big Mill System’s arms. Place the arms on the angle irons. They should protrude 55mm from the ladder. Drill 8 mm holes for fastening the arms.Use a Big Mill arm as a template, and drill in the outer edges of its tracks. Put large washers on the screws, and drive them into the holes from the inside and out, so that the nuts will be inside the arm.
This, together with the assembly angle irons, makes it easy to assemble and disassemble the Big Mill System. Tighten the arms with washers and nuts.
Adjustment: Look at the racks from the side. Place e.g. pieces of slabs under the log ladder until the racks are completely parallel to each other. If the ground gives way, make four small poles out of a one-inch board, and drive a pole down into the ground at each corner of the log ladder. Screw the poles to the log ladder in order to make the construction rigid.